From the Workshop · No. 08
Body-Safe Finishes Explained
Which coatings work, which to avoid, and how we tell whether a finish is properly cured before a piece leaves our workshop.
The finish is the part of a wooden dildo that actually touches your body. It’s the part we scrutinise most, and the one we get asked about most.
What we require from a finish
- Non-porous and continuous once cured: a sealed film, not something that soaks in and leaves the pores open.
- Inert when fully cured, with documentation from the manufacturer for use in contact with food or skin.
- Hard and durable enough to survive repeated washing, lubricant and use without softening, clouding or cracking.
- Compatible with common lubricants. A good cured film works with both water-based and silicone lube.
What we avoid
- Oil-only and wax-only finishes on toys. They’re lovely on a salad bowl, but they soak into the wood and don’t form a sealed, non-porous barrier.
- Unknown “lacquers” and varnishes with no documentation. Many contain solvents and additives that were never meant for body contact.
- Paints, stains and dyes under or in the finish.
- Anything sold uncured. A finish can feel dry in hours and still be curing for weeks.
How we check that a finish has cured
A properly cured finish has no smell at all, even when the piece is warmed in your hands or under warm water. It feels hard rather than slightly tacky, and a fingernail pressed into an inconspicuous spot leaves no mark. If a piece smells of solvent, it isn’t ready, and it stays on our drying shelf.
Our transparency promise
We only use finishes with documentation for food or skin contact once cured, and every piece gets the full cure time before it leaves our workshop. You shouldn’t have to take any maker’s word for it, so ask us about the finish on any piece.
